NICE TIMING
As it appeared in President’s Choice Magazine
(Photo courtesy of Rob Fiocca)
For most Canadians, truffles are a mysterious and decidedly foreign thing. They call to mind trained pigs rooting through the dank, ancient forests of Perigord, France, or Italy’s Umbrian. At $1.50 per gram for the Italian black variety, this is not a food we are prepared to eat every other Tuesday. Still, once tasted, the distinctive and singular aroma and flavour of truffles haunt you until you can no longer deny the craving despite the cost.
The good news is that this fungus is more accessible than ever. Fresh truffles, truffle oil and truffle butter are now available across Canada. A favourite is white truffle oil, which often comes in an 8 fl oz (240 mL) bottle (about $40), but also can be found in smaller quantities. Minuscule amounts of the oil add a distinctive taste to pastas, meats, salads and eggs. Eggs Benedict can be elevated to the spectacular with a couple drops of truffle oil in the hollandaise. In this month’s meal, a spoonful of truffle oil imparts its heady flavour to an orzo pasta dish with crimini and porcini mushrooms.
Beyond Umbria’s truffle forests, our first course relies on the neighbouring hills of Tuscany for inspiration. Extra virgin olive oil is a hallmark of Tuscan cuisine. In a marinade, dressing or sauce, its characteristic flavour is often present and always welcome. Also central to this region’s cooking is the humble and wonderful white bean, which is this recipe must soak overnight before it is paired with arugula.
TRUFFLES
The official truffle season lasts from December 1 to March 1. Truffle oils and butters can be enjoyed year-round. Professional chefs often dilute truffle oil with extra virgin olive oil (in a ratio of 1 to 3) to make this oil with its heady aroma more affordable. Bury fresh truffles in rice and store them in a sealed container, but eat them within days of purchase. If you use arborio rice you can make a stunning truffled risotto afterward. Or keep unbroken eggs in a sealed container with a truffle overnight; when you cook the eggs, you will be pleasantly surprised by the taste. The village of Sainte-Alvere in France has an excellent web site (www.sainte-alvere.com) where you can learn more about this musky delicacy.
We need not stray outside Tuscany for this month’s wine selection. Chianti has just the balance of vivacity and warmth required for truffles and nothing goes better with portobello mushrooms. Look for a Chianti Classico Riserva, which is aged for three years (generally in oak casks), giving it a complex and robust character.
When you serve a cheese course, try to select a variety of mild to strong flavours and soft to hard textures. Keeping this in mind, feel free to substitute these choices with any of your favourites. As it ages; robiola lombardia changes from soft and sweet to a semihard cheese that has a distinct truffle-like flavour. If you have difficulty finding it, substitute taleggio. German cambozola imitates Lombardy’s famous gorgonzola, but its flavour is softened with the milder qualities of camembert. For a stronger, more traditional choice, serve gorgonzola. Either will complement asiago, a hard cheese with a sharp flavour.
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